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Fly Fishing for Dolly Varden, the “Bluegill of Alaska”

May 21, 2019 By JD Leave a Comment

If you grew up anywhere in the Lower 48, there’s a high probability that your very first fish on a fly was a bluegill.

Their abundance and willingness to take the fly (even a poorly presented one) have made bluegill a favorite of beginning fly – and conventional – anglers for eons.

Of course, there are no bluegill in Alaska – but you do have Dolly Varden which are the perfect beginner fly fishing species.

Dollies in Alaska aren’t lavished with the reverence that the state’s rainbows receive. In fact, they are often considered a nuisance…gasp…even a “trash fish.” But let’s give these guys some credit here! Dollies are sporty little guys and exhibit some of the same attributes that make bluegill such popular fare down south. Most notably:

Where you find one, you usually find a bunch of ‘em — and they love to bite. Plus, they can grow to several pounds! What’s so wrong with that?

So, if you are yearning to give fluff chucking a try, these “bluegill of the North” are a great place to start. Their aggressiveness makes picking a fly pattern easy and you can get away with a dry (floating) line in just about any situation.

Gearing Up

Okay let’s get you outfitted first. I like a 9-foot, 5-weight rod for dolly fishing, but you can go up to a No. 7 or 8 if you are fishing big water with larger fish.

Now, here’s the beauty of it: you don’t need a $700 rod and a reel that cost more than your first car to catch dollies. Something you found for $20 at a flea market is fine when you are just starting out.

Sure, fancy new materials make modern rods much lighter and give them crisper actions…but first things first! Go catch a few fish first and then, if you really get into the sport, consider upgrading your equipment.

As far as line goes, get a floating, weight-forward line that matches the weight of your rod. In other words, a 5-weight line is designed for a 5-weight rod. You can sometimes go up one weight of line to make a rod cast better, but let’s just keep things simple here and stick to the manufacturer’s suggestion ratings.

Next, you’ll need a leader attached to the end of your fly line. The easiest way to go is to purchase a knotless tapered leader. Nine foot is about right and you’ll notice fly leaders will have a tippet rating that has a number followed by X. It’s a bit confusing in the beginning because fly leaders are identified by their diameter in thousands of an inch, not breaking strength.

Remember that a smaller number means heavier line: 0X is 15-pound test while 8X is about 1.5-pound line. For general dolly fishing, something like a 4X (6-pound) or 3X (8-pound) will be fine.

Dolly Tips & Techniques

The easiest way to start hooking dolly varden on the long rod is to tie on a No. 2-8 purple Egg Sucking Leech and head for the water. This fly will catch dollies like crazy…rainbows, grayling, silvers, chums and kings will hit it too so be prepared!

Dollies migrate to stream mouths and lake outlets in the spring to pick off out-migrating salmon fry and that’s where you should try first. Cast slightly down and across the current, give the line an upstream mend (lift) and then start stripping the fly in with you non-rod hand.

Let the bug drift in an arc downstream until it’s immediately downstream of your position and then re-cast.

Strikes “on the swing” like this can be fierce so there won’t be much doubt as to what’s going on when a dolly smacks your offering.

Dolly varden are notorious for eating flies right out of the surface film, but if you feel like maybe you’re not quite getting down enough, try adding a splitshot to your leader 12 to 18 inches above the fly.

As summer salmon start pairing off and dropping eggs, it’s time to start fishing yarn bugs or beads under indicators (otherwise known as bobbers). When dollies get onto the eggs, you can really catch a bunch of them!

The basic rig goes like this: The indicator is set to about twice the water depth and then one or two pegged beads at the business end of the tippet.

The idea here is to try as best you can to match the size and color of the eggs the salmon are releasing. Dollies (and particularly rainbows) can get pretty dialed into a particular look of an egg and ignore anything that doesn’t fit the color and profile they are looking for.

The indicator rig is a bit more of a pain to cast, but it gets easier with time. Toss straight out or slightly upstream and then mend the line upriver by lifting it with the rod tip, to keep any bows out of it.

If you get one section of line that’s getting pushed by the current faster then the rest, it creates excess drag, pulling the entire rig downstream at an unnatural pace.

It takes some practice to get the whole “dead drift” thing down, but that’s the beauty of dollies…you bead could well off the bottom, swinging through the run at Mach 2 and you’re still going to get bit.

Later in the fall, when the salmon die off, flesh flies will be the ticket. Dollies fatten up for the upcoming winter by chowing down on chunks of dead salmon meat so your flies should be whiteish-tan in color to match the washed out meat.

You can fish flesh flies just as you would beads or on the swing.

Filed Under: Fly Fishing Tagged With: alaska, alaska fishing, alaska rainbow trout fly fishing, bluegill, char, dolly varden, egg beads, flesh flies, fly fishing, flyfishing, woolly bugger

Fly Fishing with a Spinning Rod

July 12, 2009 By JD 65 Comments

Trout and bobber
Fly fishing with spinning gear may sound a bit funky at first, but it’s one deadly trout technique!

And what’s really cool is you can take just about any popular fly fishing technique – be it floating dries, indicator nymphing or stripping leeches and streamers – and you can get it done with spinning tackle. In some cases, you can do it in a much more efficient and accurate fashion, too. That’s right, you can do just as well – or better – tossing little wads of feathers and glue on light spinning gear. Welcome to the brave new world of fluff chucking with the short rod.

Dry Flies

When a hatch is coming off, trout can get single-mindedly dialed into those particular bugs and won’t eat anything that doesn’t match that exact size and color profile. In those circumstances, you could toss every piece of hardware in your box until you turned blue and not get so much as a sniff from a fish.

Crystal Cast bobber and flies
The Crystal Cast is a great bobber for dry fly fishing with a spinning rod

The good news is you can get to those surface sippers with spinning gear and the right setup. First off, figure out what pattern the fish are feeding on and then tie on a clear float (the ball point pen-shaped Crystal Cast is the best I’ve found). From the other end of the float, run as much leader as you can comfortably cast – usually 3 to 5 feet – and then tie on your fly. As with any sort of dry fly fishing, you’ll greatly enhance your effective fishing time by liberally coating your bug in floatant to keep it riding high and dry. In moving water, cast upstream of the fish, pick up the slack between the fly and float and allow it to drift with the current naturally.

Yep, this is fun!
Yep, this is fun!

Now, you can also catch trout on dries on lakes. When using this rig to target rising trout on stillwater, you actually have the advantage over traditional fly gear because you can cast farther and require less room for back casts. Toss out beyond the fish and work your offering back through the feeding zone with a steady, molasses-slow retrieve. If fish start blowing up around you, stop cranking and let the fly sit.

“Spin”dicator Nymphing

When the trout are feeding below the surface, many Western fly fishers turn to indicator nymphing, which just may be the deadliest of all trout techniques. With a few slight modifications, the spinning crowd can also get in on the fun. To rig up for spindicator nymphing, slide a cigar-shaped sliding or slip float to your mainline. Every float has a weight rating and you need to pick one that will handle the amount of lead you’ll be using. I generally only use a splitshot or two and maybe a bead-head nymph, so small bobbers like the Shy Bite and Mini Stealth by Thill work great.

Indicator Nymphing is actually more effective on spinning gear
Indicator Nymphing is actually more effective on spinning gear

Next, tie a nymph to the business end of your main line and add just enough splitshot 12 to 18 inches above the fly to keep it near the bottom and your bobber riding straight up and down. Fly selection, of course, is a day-to-day and water-by-water type of deal. However, there are several bugs like Hare’s Ears, AP Nymphs, Birdsnests, Zug Bugs, San Juan Worms and Glo Bugs that fish will eat in a wide array of conditions.

One good way to get started is to buy a trout assortment fly kit that will give you several popular dry and sub surface patterns.

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You can start with some of those patterns until you figure out what the trout are onto on a given day. The key to making the whole deal work lies in your ability to make a drag-free presentation. In other words, your rig needs to drift naturally downstream at the speed of the current. If a belly forms in your line between the rod tip and the float, the current will grab it and drag your line downstream too quickly.

Big Buggin’

So maybe you want to target larger trout with streamers and leechy-type stuff. No problem! There are several ways to throw big bugs on spinning tackle.

Muddler Minnows + spin gear = Big Trout!
Muddler Minnows + spin gear = Big Trout!

One of my favorite stream trout methods for browns is to cast Muddler Minnows, smolt patterns and dark Woolly Buggers and Zonkers. You can get a mixed pack of them HERE. I’ll use just enough splitshot 12 to 15 inches above the fly to get it down near the bottom and then cast slightly downstream and across. As the fly sinks and begins its downstream arc, I’ll twitch it along with subtle pops of the rod tip. Most strikes occur right at the end of the swing, and believe me brother when I say hang on to your rod!

There’s nothing subtle about the way salmo trutta slams a swung fly. A variation on this theme also works well in lakes. Instead of running the weight up the line, I will crimp a single splitshot onto the leader just ahead of the eye of the hook, making my own “poor man’s” beadhead. I’ve had some days for the record books in the High Sierra, hopping buggers right along the bottom. When the trout are near the surface in the spring and fall, the old school Bug and Bubble is the ticket.

Wolly Bugger and Bubble
Wooly Bugger and bubble

To rig up, run a clear casting bubble or a Crystal Cast float up your mainline and then attach 3 to 5 feet of leader with Woolly Bugger, Bunny Leech, Matuka or Zonker on the end. If you need to get down a bit, affix a small shot 18 inches up the line. The idea here is to whip the thing out there and work it back to you with a slow, steady grind punctuated with an occasional pop of the rod tip.

Gearing Up

For general spin-fly purposes, I like a 5’4″ St Croix ultralight stick for small overgrown streams and the 7-foot Okuma SST makes a nice affordable choice for fishing on larger rivers and lakes.

Line choice is dictated by the style of fishing you plan to do. For fishing dries or dead-drifting nymphs with floats, go with 10-pound braid and 4-pound P-Line Fluorocarbon for a leader. When fishing without a bobber, I run straight 4- to 6-pound fluorocarbon.

Come on baby...go down!
Come on baby… go down!

There are many quality spinning reels on the market these days and I’d look for one that has a a smooth drag system, like the Shimano 1000 Syncopate, which is a nice reel for the price. A little nicer (and more expensive) one is the Diawa BG 1500.

Well, there you have it – trout fly fishing from a spinning point of view. It’s not just a novelty, either. I guarantee the techniques outlined above help you improve you scores this spring and summer. And you don’t need to spend a fortune to get started.

When you’re ready for some bigger game like steelhead fishing, check out my huge 6+ hour online course: Catch More Steelhead. It will teach you everything you need to know to get good!

And of course, guided fishing trips on Lake Tahoe, Pyramid Lake and Alaska with JD are available year round HERE

Filed Under: Best of FishwithJD, Trout & Kokanee Tagged With: crystal cast, dry fly, fly fishing, indicator fishing, indicator nymphing, muddler minnow, nymphs, spinning gear, trout fishing, woolly bugger

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