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Top 5 Easy Outboard Motor Fixes

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So, your outboard motor won’t start? Before you take it in to the shop, try these 5 simple fixes…

These are simple, often easy solutions but sometimes it’s hard to think clearly and remember even the most obvious fixes when you and your motor that won’t run are clogging up the boat ramp on a busy day or drifting downstream towards the rapids.

FLOODED

If you can get the outboard to start and you start smelling fuel or seeing it in the water, chances are the engine is flooded. A simple fix is to disconnect the gas line where it attaches to the motor and keep trying to start it. Eventually, you’ll run the extra gas out of there and you’ll hear it fire. As soon as it does, reconnect the fuel line and then go for a boat ride before you stop again.

KILL SWITCH

You know the old saying about appliances when they don’t work — well, did you check and see if it was plugged in? As dumb as that sounds, most of us have done that. Same with outboard motors — I limped several miles home on my kicker motor one day with clients years ago when I thought my big motor was dead. Turned out I had somehow knocked the kill switch out. Without it, of course, the motor will never fire.

So, if the boat will crank and crank but wont turn over, check to see if the little red kill switch is attached. If it’s not, don’t tell anybody and then make it look like you are doing something really difficult under the cowling and then sneak it back on when nobody’s looking and tell them you had to adjust the Flux Capacitor.

FUEL VENT

There’s usually a twist knob on the top of the fuel cap. Notice how the can is caving in…

Ever had your motor start running rough all of a sudden? It will start to sputter and sound like it’s about to die…and eventually will quit. If you are lucky, it could be the easiest fix of all — opening the fuel vent on your gas tank.

Those red portable tanks that come with most small outboards have a little vent knob (usually on the cap) that lets air in. If you forget to loosen that knob before you start boating, it will cause the motor to quit eventually.

You may even notice this starting to happen before the engine starts running poorly — the walls and top of the gas tank will start getting sucked inward.

Simply loosen the vent and you’ll be on your way! Just remember to tighten it down once you get the boat back on the trailer.

PLUGGED UP

Most new and larger outboards have overheat alarms on them that will beep if the motor is getting too hot. Lower horsepower and older models don’t always have an alarm, but if you notice the motor sputtering, along with a burning smell, there’s a good chance it’s getting overheated. Hot to the touch is another obvious sign that there’s a problem.

A lot of these situations can be avoided — or at least caught in the early stages — by simply checking to see if the motor is “peeing” out the back. These engines are water cooled…water is drawn in through a screen in the lower unit and the run up through the motor to keep everything running cool. Whenever you start the engine, simply look at the motor to see if you notice a stream of water being expelled. Some models eject the water straight out the back but most I’ve owned shoot in out at an angle from just below the cowling.

If you see that she’s not spraying water, immediately shut the motor down and let it cool. Take the cowling off and look for a (usually black) hose that attaches to the exit port. Pull it off the nipple on the inside of the motor and check for debris. Sometimes all you need to do it blow into the tube. More pesky clogs may require a small wire. Also tile the motor up and see if the intake screens are blocked with weeds or a small piece of plastic.

If you can’t find the clog and the motor wont spray, use an auxiliary motor to get home if you have one. If not, make sure its cool and then run it a short distance and then let it cool off again. Repeat that as necessary until you get back to the ramp.

SOFT BALL

When you go to start your outboard and it won’t kick over — or it will just run for a few seconds and then dies — check the hardness of the squeeze ball in the fuel line. If it is soft, squeeze it several times until it gets solid. Sometimes you just don’t have enough gas  in the line to get the thing to fire but pumping some more into the motor you will be up in running in no time.

There are several other little fixes that I have learned over the years but these are the most common and easy ones. Maybe in the future, I’ll do a column on some of the other troubleshooting methods for outboards.

Gear Review: Work Sharp Field Sharpener

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I’ll admit it: I suck at sharpening knives. So when a buddy suggested I try the Work Sharp Field Sharpener on my overly-dull fillet knife, I gave it a whirl…reluctantly.

You see, I have tried a bunch of sharpeners in the past: old school stone and diamond models, the cheesy pull-though style and several others. I’m sure it’s more trouble with my technique than the actual device but still I wondered if I’d struggle with the Field Sharpener too.

Well, I’ve been using one for a good year now and here’s my review:

The first thing I noticed when I originally pulled the Work Sharp Field Sharpener out of the package is its sturdy construction. It also is small and compact and very portable. You can throw this thing in a backpack to tackle box…but I use it on my guide boat.

Real World Test

Apparently I was very focused — and even using a little “facial english” while cutting up this striper…

Well, let’s just…um…”cut” to the chase here. The Work Sharp has been with me through last fall’s king salmon run and all this spring, in what was one of the most prolific striper seasons we have seen in years. In other words, I abused the heck outta my knife.

Stripers are especially tough on fillet knives — what with that thick skin, armored scales and thick rib bones. In years past, I have burned up so many knives — including an electric one — on stripers so I didn’t hold out much hope that this year’s blade would make it through alive.

Built-in angle guides make sharpening a breeze!

But, thanks to the super easy to follow built-in angle guides in the Field Sharpener, even a monkey with two left hands like me was able to easily sharpen my knife each day (sometimes twice a day when going through a big batch of fish). In fact, my knife is still with me and in great shape!

When you combine the ease of use with excellent results, I was stoked that I actually had a sharpener that worked. And at around $35, it seems like a good value to me, considering I can’t imagine it wearing out anytime soon.

I have yet to do anything to the sharpener as far as maintenance or care goes and it just keep on making blades sharp. After rolling around in the tray of my boat for a full year, it looks a bit dirty but is otherwise totally functional.

Ol’ Reliable

Use and Features

The best part of the tool is it is almost foolproof to used. Simply run the edge down the yellow guide and draw the blade across the sharpening surface…How many times depends on what condition your edge is in. During striper season, about 5 strokes a side on the fine side was all it took. For salmon, I usually hit the sharpener every couple of days.

My favorite blade getting its daily tuneup on the Work Sharp

The Field Sharpener features two diamond plates for sharpening — a course side for fixing really damaged edges and a finer one for honing.

Double sided — for course and fine edge work.

When your blade is about where you want it, you can use the built in leather strop to put the extra little touch on it.

Built in Leather Strop

For curved knives like my mini fillet knife I found that the on board 3-position ceramic rod worked better. Its has a course and fine setting too.

You can sharpen curved knives on the Ceramic Rod

Additionally, the ceramic rod has a fish hook setting so you can touch up dull points.

An easy twist of the dial gets you to the hook sharpener mode.

 

Bonus hook sharpener on board

Sharpens Other Stuff Too

In addition,  you can easily sharpen scissors, axes and even broad head arrows with the Field Sharpener. Serrated edges are no problem for the smaller ceramic honer. Take the magnetic side plates off and you have a built in broad head arrow wrench. Pretty cool!

Made in USA

Obviously, I really like the Work Sharp Field Sharpener as a tool — but I also appreciate the fact that they are an American company, making these babies right in Ashland, Oregon.

Works Sharp’s website is full of how-to videos and other useful stuff too.

Where to Buy

Click here to buy a Work Sharp Field Sharpener

Save the Rivers: Dinner to Benefit Central Valley Rivers

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Lord knows the salmon, steelhead, sturgeon and striped bass fisheries in the Central Valley are hurting!

If you have any interest in protecting and enhancing our fisheries in the Sacramento Valley, please come to the big dinner being put on by NOR-CAL Guides & Sportsmen’s Association

Funds raised from the event will go to many projects designed to put ore fish back in the rivers! There will be an awesome meal, combined with tons of cool prizes up for grabs.

There are only a couple sponsor tables left and the event looks like it is going to be HUGE! Come on out Nov. 4!