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How to Cook Trout with Herb Vinaigrette

January 13, 2011 By JD Leave a Comment

It all starts here...


I caught a mess o’ trout recently and, while I typically release most of them, I decided to keep a couple for dinner this time around. I usually just wrap the fish in foil, add some lemon, butter, pepper and garlic and throw it on the barbie…you really can’t go wrong with that method…but I was just in the mood for something different. So, I checked in with our resident master game and fish chef, Scott Leysath.

Leysath, co-host of the popular TV show,“Hunt-Fish-Cook,” suggested doing the trout with a herb vinaigrette.?? He said you can bake, broil or pan-fry trout this way, but his favorite method is to throw it on the grill. Anyway, here’s how to impress your family, friends and taste buds:?? Click here to read more…

Filed Under: Cooking Tagged With: Cooking, hunt-fish-cook, recipe, scott leysath, sporting chef, trout

How to Tie Yarn Balls for Steelhead

January 6, 2011 By JD 43 Comments

Lately, my wife’s been saying maybe I should have married yarn instead of her

I the January 2011 issue of Salmon Trout Steelheader Magazine, I wrote an article called the “Ultimate Steelhead Bait,” which highlights why yarn eggs are a wonderful tool for those of us addicted to chasing anadramous rainbows. I also talked about how to fish them. Well, here’s kind of the companion piece… how to tie the little buggers!

Yarn Selection

For steelhead fishing, I like pinks and oranges, sometimes mixed with white and/or a little chartreuse. It’s going to be different everywhere you fish, so go ahead and experiment on your local creeks. Half the fun of making Yarnies is trying out new color combinations.

There are several yarn manufacturers out there and I mostly use the UV stuff put out by Steelhead Stalkers and Glo Bug Yarn by the Bug Shop in Anderson, CA. Overall, I think Steelhead Stalkers makes the better product, but I do like some of the colors the Bug Shop has, so I often mix and match. Anyway, I’ll show you the way I do it with each brand.

Tying a Yarnie

First off, you’ll need some bad-ass scissors for making yarnies. Most folks say to buy the fancy fly tying variety, but I really prefer this style. They’re sharp as hell, spring loaded and you don’t have to mash your fingers into the rings, which is a lot more comfortable in the long run. This pair is made by Fiskars and my wife buys them at the fabric store.

Save yourself a lot of trouble and drop $20 for a really good pair of scissors!

Okay, starting with a Yarnie made from Steelhead Stalkers’ yarn, cut two or three 1- to 2-inch strands (it’s super thick and “fluffy,” so you don’t need a lot).

It doesn’t take much Steelhead Stalkers yarn to make a yarnie

Next, stack it like a furry ice cream sandwich…

A little pinch between your cheek and gums…kidding of course!

Next take some thread…either Miracle Thread, or better yet, Ghost Cocoon, and make 10 very tight wraps in the middle of the yarn and break the tag end off…

Make sure the wraps are tight!!

What you end up with is a little butterfly looking critter. Ah, isn’t he cute?

While this would probably catch a fish, there’s some trimming yet to be done!

Now, squeeze one of the “wings” tight and trim it in a half-circle…

Making the half circle…here’s where the sharp scisssors come in handy!

Flip it over and do the same thing to the other side. When you’re done, the yarnie starts taking shape. Fluff it out at this point…

Almost there…

Okay, now take the “fluffed-out” Yarnie and trim any mohawks and wild hairs and you’re done…

A few last clips…

Glo Bug Yarn version

Before we get into rigging, here’s a quick version of how to tie a yarnie with Glo Bug or similar yarn…

Use at least 4 strands of Glo Bug Yarn because of its skinnier diameter

Wrap 10 tight ones with the thread in the middle

Now, fold all 8 strands together, pinching the “elbow” tight with your thumb and finger

Same deal, cut the loose ends in a half-circle. But don’t cut the other side!

Fluff all the loose ends out…

Use your thumb as a guide and trim, trim, trim until you get a nice round(ish) ball…

The only bummer is how much material is wasted with this method…

Rigging

Rigging a yarn ball is simple…you can add it to your bait loop if you’d like, but for drift fishing, I prefer to run the hook right through the center of the “bait,” and push it up tight against the hook’s eye. Next, add a small Fish Pill to the back end and you’re in business!

Where legal, add some scent and you’re really got an effective steelie weapon! Shy away from the sticky and gel-based ones and stick to oils or straight liquids. The night before I fish, I’ll throw my yarnies in a small Zip-Loc with a couple squirts of Mike’s Salmon Egg or Shrimp Glo Scent or Pro Cure’s Sand Shrimp oil. The yarn will absorb some of the scent and then, as it washes out, you can add a dab or two when needed throughout the day. You can also mush up some roe or loose eggs and dip your yarn in the juice… they milk just like the “real” thing.

Mmmm…steelhead food!

Hopefully, this is the end result of all that cuttin’ & fluffin!

More Steelhead Techniques

Filed Under: Best of FishwithJD, Steelhead, Techniques Tagged With: Steelhead, yarn egg, yarnie

Three Hot Baits for Cold Water Bass

December 7, 2010 By JD 2 Comments

This time of year, you can go from Indian Summer to winter overnight. One day, you’ll be fishing in shirtsleeves and then it snows on you the next. When you get a sudden cold front, bass fishing often gets extremely tough. Luckily, all is not lost. Professional bass angler Fred Contaoi has a few tricks up his sleeve to keep the bass chewing — even when they’re hunkered down after the first storm of the year.

While most folks turn to drop-shotting finesse baits and spooning in deep water when the temps go frigid, Contaoi says that there’s a short window in which the bass will still be up in the shallows and he employs three main weapons to get the fish to go. Click here to read more…

Filed Under: Bass, Techniques Tagged With: buzzbait, jigs, largemouth bass, senko, winter

3 Tips to help you catch more topwater stripers

October 7, 2010 By JD 5 Comments

A nice surface bass from the CA Delta!

Catching big striped bass on topwater plugs is about as fun as those bikini Jello wrestling matches we used to have back in college…oh wait, did I say that out loud? Er, well..anyway, let’s just say having a jumbo striper blow up on your popper is pretty damn fun!

And it’s even more fun when you catch lots of fish! Here are a few simple tricks that should help you do just that! Click here to read more…

Filed Under: Stripers, Techniques Tagged With: popper, striper fishing, topwater plugs

The 3 Best Sinkers for Drift Fishing

October 4, 2010 By JD 18 Comments


Okay, so what do Jessica Alba and a driftboat on B.C.’s Kitimat River have in common? Well, aside from a nice fantasy I just had…nothing. It’s just that we’re going to talk about sinkers for drift fishing this time around and I knew I had to get you sucked in somehow! Sinkers aren’t exactly the most exciting topic on the planet, but there’s a lot you really need to know.

So, my cheap advertising campaign aside, let’s get down to it. A lot of getting a proper presentation when drift fishing stems from your sinker selection, so you really need to pick the right stuff. In the old days, choosing which sinker to use was simple – there was pencil lead and, well, pencil lead and that was it. Now, we’ve got quite a few options to choose from. Let’s take a look at the three I use and the pros and cons of each.

Slinkies

When they first burst upon the drift fishing scene some 20 years ago, Slinkies were about the single greatest invention steelheaders had seen since the introduction of the graphite rod. In case you’ve been vacationing in Katmandu for the past couple decades, Slinkies are made from buckshot stuffed, single file, into parachute cord. The end result is a sinker that is flexible and extremely snag-resistant. As a testament to their effectiveness, Slinkies remain extremely popular today.

Slinkie_rigged

Because of their ability to fend off snags, Slinkies are staples on rocky rivers with nasty, uneven bottoms but they work just fine on smooth cobble riverbeds as well. They don’t get down as quickly as pencil lead, but they tend to slide along – rather than pound – the bottom, which gives your bait a nice “just drifting along with the current” presentation.

As a Slinky taps along the bottom, the feeling you get at the rod tip is quite a bit softer than if you were using lead. For that reason, inexperienced steelheaders sometimes find them difficult to use because the distinction between a bottom bounce and a bit isn’t as clear. But, it gets easier with time. Stick with it and you’ll quickly become a believer.

Slinkies work great for bank fishing, free-drifting, side-gliding and boondogging in most spots – except situations in which you need to get down immediately or in heavily wooded streams. I like long, slim Slinkies made from .210 gauge shot when I’m fishing waters with grabby bottoms and magnum .250 shot when I’m working big, heavy water.

Pencil Lead

Pencil_Lead

While it seems like pencil lead has been left in the dust by the popularity of sinkers like Slinkies, this oldie but goodie still has its use.

The greatest attribute of pencil lead is its ability to get down to the bottom in a hurry. This makes it the ideal choice when you’re fishing in very swift and/or deep water and it’s also great for pounding short, deep slots that require immediate bottom contact. Pencil lead transmits a very distinct “tap-tap-tap” to the rod tip when it’s bouncing along the bottom, so it allows you to very easily tell if your offerings are getting down or not. It works well when you’re drifting fishing off the bank or boondogging free-drifting from a sled.

The downside to straight lead is it is extremely grabby and “sticks” to rocks. You’ll get snagged up more often with pencil lead than any other type of weight. Also, as it pounds the bottom, it can impart a bit of a herky-jerky action to your bait, which sometimes turns steelhead off. Because of it stickiness, lead also drifts slower than other sinkers – which is an advantage in cold, off-colored water and negative factor when you’re fishing warmer flows.

Pencil lead seems to snag less than do Slinkies in woody areas and is also a good choice in heavily-fished areas like Blue Creek on the Cowlitz. . In areas of heavy fishing pressure where anglers lose lots of gear, pencil lead works best because hooks caught in the rocks can easily impale Slinkies. Catch your Slinky on a derelict hook anchored to the bottom and you’re probably going to lose your entire rig.

In summary, I mainly use pencil lead – usually solid core 3/16 size – when getting a deep, slow presentation is my main goal. I can get away with it, I prefer Slinkies or Sploosh Balls because I feel I get a more natural drift with them.

Sploosh Balls

Sploosh_Ball

Sploosh what?? These things have taken the Nor Cal coast by storm…they’re black plastic balls with a barrel swivel embedded in the top. Sploosh Balls are virtually snag free, glide beautifully along the bottom and are particularly useful in long, slow runs and shallow tailouts where other sinkers would lose momentum and hang up. The wide profile and relatively light body weight of a sploosh ball allows it to go where other sinkers can’t. I absolutely love them for side-gliding and have gone an entire winter season without losing more than a dozen of the things!

You can drift Sploosh Balls very swiftly, so they’re a good choice when you’re fishing low water conditions and trying to stay ahead of the pack of boats – or when the water temps are up and the fish are active.

But there are a few inherent problems with Splooshers, too. First of all, they’re too wide and light to effectively be fished from shore in most cases. It takes some practice to get the feel for the way they drift, and you should know that when fished on a sliding rig, they have a tendency to “roll” up the line towards the boat. And since they’re plastic, it also takes longer for these sinkers to get down near the bottom so you need to set up for a drift a little earlier than you normally would.

In instances where the sploosh rig just isn’t getting down, I’ll do a little aftermarket upgrading by adding some lead to them. The best method involves drilling out the bottom of the ball with a 3/16-inch bit and inserting a section of 3/16 pencil lead into the hole (just be sure all you lead pieces are the same length). Or instead of pencil lead, you can add 2 to 4 buckshot to the hole. With a “lead butt” model, you can cover lots of different situations and be pretty assured you won’t burn through a lot of sinkers.

Final Thought

Okay, so enough about sinkers already! Let’s end on a high note and get back to Jessica and the driftboat. Upon further reflection, I’m thinking we ought to switch the B.C. driftboat to a flats boat in the Bahamas…

More Salmon Techniques
More Steelhead Techniques

Filed Under: Salmon, Steelhead, Techniques Tagged With: boondogging, Salmon, side drifting, side drifting for steelhead, side gliding, Steelhead

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