An old bass plug comes out of retirement and heads to Alaska for salmon…
Bead Fishing: A Case for NOT Matching the Hatch
Fishing with beads is certainly all the rage these days for trout, dollies, grayling, steelhead — and even salmon. Delivered via a fly rod or fished under bobber on spinning gear, it’s hard to deny the effectiveness of both hard plastic and soft beads. The little orbs work in a myriad of situations but are perhaps most effective when spawning salmon are present.
You’ve probably read about — or experienced — how trout and char in particular can get frustratingly selective when there are lots of loose eggs awash in a spawning stream. They see the real thing drifting along by the thousands so if your offering looks even slightly off, it’s going to get ignored. That’s of course how pegging the bead up away from the hook got started but anglers soon found that there was a lot more to it than that.
Having exactly the right size bead to match that of the spawning species is often essential — as is matching the color of the egg in terms of species and freshness.
Match the Hatch?
While “matching the hatch” is the key to success in most situations, I have also found that there are times when you can throw convention out the window and go almost the opposite direction.
The fist time I learned this lesson was on a small stream near Bristol Bay. I had a couple anglers who wanted a break from conventional salmon fishing and liked the idea of going after trout and dollies with a fly rod. I had just the place: A long, shallow flat absolutely loaded with spawning chums. I pulled the little sled over on a gravel bar and walked my guys up to the spot.
Before we fished, we climbed a high bank and looked down onto the flat. There were probably a couple hundred salmon working on redds in there. Behind the salmon were dozens and dozens of dark, slightly smaller shapes — big rainbows and char that were gorging themselves on eggs.
Chum eggs are pretty good size, so I rigged my guys up with 10 mm beads in a light orange color to perfectly mimic the eggs the salmon were releasing. I pointed the anglers in the right direction and then grabbed my needle nose pliers in anticipation of the un-hooking madness that was sure to come. Only it didn’t…
Neither of my dudes got bit on their first few casts but I’d seen that happen before. It was simply a matter of switching out the bead color. The color of a salmon egg can vary, based on location, water temperature and how long they have been in the water. So, I gave the clients a couple slightly different shades or orange and peach and set them back out into the run. Same result. Well, perhaps the eggs were older than I expected, so I switched them out to more opaque models since real salmon eggs turn cloudy or creamy when they’re dead.
After a half an hour of working over a teeming horde of actively feeding fish without a grab, I got frustrated and put a 12 mm hot pink BnR Tackle bead on one of the guy’s rods.
I really didn’t have a good reason for it other than the fact that I had run out of conventional wisdom. Well, you can probably see where this is headed: The guy immediately started catching a good 3 plus pound dolly or rainbow on every single cast! I switched my other client to the “pink wonder” and he quickly got in on the fun too. They must have landed 30 gorgeous fish off that flat — every single one with that funky pink ball in their mouths.
Since then, I have pulled that one out of my bag of tricks many times when the bite was lackluster. It doesn’t always produce the same results that I saw on that first day but it has been a trip saver on many occasions. I’m not totally certain what’s going on in those cases but my best guess is the color change somehow makes it easier for the fish to key in on the bead. It may just be that the pink (I’ve also tried dark red and chartreuse with good results) stands out just enough against the zillions of orange eggs down there.
When you think about it, it makes perfect sense. The “stand-out” bead may appeal to the predatory instinct that fish use to spot the one wounded baitfish in a school. They’re used to locking onto the loner or injured forage fish against a backdrop of hundreds or thousands of others and that may be what, in effect, is happening in this situation.
Of course, it’s hard to say but whatever the reason, I know changing to a completely contrasting bead — even when the conditions suggest you shouldn’t — is definitely something to keep in the back of your mind when the fish are playing hard to get.
“Thunder Beading”
I have also found that there are days when a technique I call “Thunder Beading” out-fishes all others. It’s really just a hyped up name for using a much larger bead than you’d normally would.
Just like the technique I described above, I stumbled onto this one by accident. One afternoon on a tributary to the Nushagak River, I had a couple clients casting 6 mm beads to match the small sockeye eggs that the rainbows, dollies and grayling were munching on.
The fish they were catching were relatively small — the grayling were all 12-13 inches and the trout and char were topping out around 18 inches. Still, my guys were having a ball catching fish every cast. I, on the other hand, was getting bored. They boys didn’t need my help so I was just hanging out on the bar watching the occasional school of fresh silvers work their way upstream.
Though silvers can become monotonous later in the year, those were the first of the season and I desperately wanted to hook one. Not armed with any silver-specific patterns, I decided I’d put on the biggest thing I had in my box — a 16 mm orange soft bead that somebody had given me to try. That thing looked like a golf ball in my bead box next to all the other 6 to 10 mm sizes but it was the only thing I had that seemed large enough to get a silver’s attention.
I waited around for a few minutes until the next migrating pod of coho came into view and then I lobbed my “Thunder Bead” into the run ahead of them and was shocked to see the indicator go down immediately. At first, I thought I’d hooked the lead coho but then realized I was fast into a 26-inch rainbow! Purely coincidence…or so I thought!
As it turned out, I started putting a pretty good beat-down on really nice trout and char with that kooky jumbo egg. It didn’t take long for the clients to notice I was catching much larger fish than they were so I handed one of them the rod with the big bead on it and he caught several good fish from 22 to 28 inches before he finally lost it on a snaggletoothed chum’s dorsal fin.
I’m always fascinated by what makes fish do what they do and the riddle of the big beads catching big fish kept me up thinking that night. We didn’t even know there were any big fish in that section of creek until I started using that tennis ball of an egg imitation. The obvious answer to it is the whole “big bait, big fish theory” but I wanted to read more into it.
As I noted earlier, trout can get crazy-selective when they’re focusing on eggs, so this behavior was pretty weird. Could it be that the big egg simply presented a better protein gained for energy expended ratio to the trout and dollies? Hypothetically, it took the same amount of energy for the fish to move to and grab the 16 mm bead as it would for them to take one of the sockeye eggs half its size. So, all things bing equal, the monster egg presented a better deal to them — especially when you consider it was fall and the fish must inherently feel the end of the season coming sooner than later.
There’s always a good chance that I’m over-thinking the situation and that the big bead was just easier to spot — kinda like the pink one in the sea of orange eggs I described above. I suppose you could also argue that, due to large size of the bead, there was less competition for it. The grayling certainly couldn’t get their little whitefish mouthes around it, nor could the smaller trout. Therefore, one could theorize that the largest fish in the run would be the most interested in the “Godzilla Egg.”
I suppose its sometimes best to just accept that something works without overanalyzing it. Just take my word for it, there are times when the biggest bead in your box is the one the fish will want!
I have also found large beads to be the ticket when the water is off-color due to the fact they are more visible. The larger profile of a 14 mm or 20mm bead in extremely cold water can sometimes coax otherwise lethargic fish in to striking when smaller presentations are ignored. Thunder beads also really seem to shine when there are no spawning fish in a river. Though the fish aren’t dialed into eggs at that time, they are still very familiar with the round shape and color of a large bead and eat them frequently.
Since I started fishing a lot of larger-sized beads (even up to the 40 mm size), I have noticed that salmon are pretty keen on them as well. Kings and silvers in particular have a taste for big beads but I have also caught plenty of chums, pinks and even reds on them as well. And that’s what really makes fishing these things fun — you just never know what you are going to catch when you have one on the end of your leader our tippet.
I guess the moral of the story here is to remember that fish often act in ways that we don’t fully understand. In the context of fishing with pegged beads under either a bobber or an indicator, keep in mind that perfectly matching the hatch doesn’t always ensure success. There are times when going against the grain and throwing something completely different at the fish pays huge dividends.
I’m a big fan of BnR Soft Beads, which you can get HERE.
Is your roe bad or is there something else going on??
When you aren’t getting bit while salmon fishing with roe, it could be that you have bad eggs…but maybe not! There are some things you can try before you toss your bait into the garbage!
Pro Tips: Plugging for River Salmon
Fall is here and that means it’s time for one of my all-time favorite activities: Plugging for king salmon!
If your plug game needs a little tuneup, check out my eBook Plug Fishing for River Salmon which contains everything you need to know to become a proficient wiggler angler.
It’s a quick read full of diagrams, photos and how-to goodies. And at $ 2.99, it costs less than a single lure!
Here’s a quick glance at what’s inside:
Just click the link above and it will take you to Amazon or google my name and the title of the book and you’ll find it.
Hot Trick: How to Cast Plugs for King Salmon
I love it when fishing makes me do some outside-the-box thinking — when a situation challenges conventional methods and requires a creative solution.
That’s exactly how casting plugs for kings came about for me.
For me it all started with a spot we call the Reindeer Hole on a favorite king river. The kings always pile by the hundreds…heck maybe even thousands…into that spot. They’d roll and splash around like crazy in there but were always very difficult to catch be- cause the hole has essentially no flow.
It’s a deep, frog water pond seemingly better suited to largemouth bass than fresh-from-the sea Chinook and it’s hard to effectively fish.
With no current with which to work, backtrolling plugs is out and fishing bobbers and eggs is also tough because your gear doesn’t move downstream. Trolling is no bueno either be- cause you end up spooking the fish by driving your boat over them in the clear water. You can catch a few on spinners but we never really had any good days in there until I started casting plugs.
The fact that the hole looks like a bass pond got me thinking about casting crankbaits to bucketmouths — and that’s essentially where the concept came from.
But instead of tossing shad or crawfish pattern plugs, I simply started throwing around the lures we already used for salmon: FlatFish, Kwikfish, MagLips and Brad’s Magnum Wigglers.
In short: It worked! Really well. The technique was so effective that I started trying it elsewhere. I wanted to know if was just something that worked on that particular stream or would fish bite castes plugs everywhere?
Well, the Cliff’s Notes version of the tale is I have found kings from Alaska to California and back very receptive to this technique. In fact, what start-ed out as a quick fix to get those pesky slow water kings of the Reindeer Hole to bite has now has morphed into a family of techniques that I use almost daily in my salmon guiding.
Let’s take a look at where and how to cast plugs for kings:
FROG WATER From the above story, it’s obvious that plug casting really shines in all those slow spots that are hard to fish with more traditional methods.
What’s cool about that is now you’ll have a way to fish a bunch of spots you previously just passed by!
I like to get off to the side of the pool (either in an anchored boat or on the bank) and toss plugs in all directions when there is absolutely no flow. I’ll start with a few casts upstream of my position and then make some straight out and then a few below me.
If there’s even the faintest bit of current, I normally cast straight across or slightly downstream.
In either case, the trick is to make several fast turns of the reel handle as soon as the plug hits the water. That helps get the plug down deep, at which point you can slow the retrieve to a slow crawl.
The idea is to get the lure down as far as you can and then work it just fast enough to keep it in the zone.
Since plugs float, keep reeling until you are finished with the cast — otherwise the lure with rise up towards the surface.
Speaking of that, kings in deep holes aren’t always on the bottom. So it makes sense to cover a few different parts of the water column.
To do that, I’ll cast my shallowest diver first to try to pick off fish hanging closer to the surface. Then, I’ll use a medium diver to work the mid depths and, finally, a deep lure to probe the bottom.
When you get bit, a king will often nudge the plug before he inhales it. You might feel a “thump” in the rod tip, followed by some heavy pumping. At that point you should do do…nothing. Set too soon and you will jerk the plug away from the fish.
Trust me, it’s extremely but if you can delay your strike for a bit until the fish really loads up the rod, you will convert a lot more bites into salmon in the net.
SEARCHING TOOL After I got confidence in casting plugs for kings, I started adapting the technique to other situations.
As it turns out, it’s an excellent “searching” technique that allows you to quickly cover a lot of water. I particularly like it on long, wide flats on which the kings can kind of be here, there and everywhere.
Searching works best from a moving boat but you can also cast from shore. What I like to do is point the bow of the boat upstream and use the motor to slowly slip downhill, transom first. I’ll keep the boat off to the side of the preferred holding water and have my guys cast straight across.
As they crank the plugs along the bottom, the current will sweep the lures in a downstream arc. Instead of backtrolling down one specific lane, this sweeping approach, combined with slow-ly sliding downstream, gives you a lot more bottom coverage. And fishing often boils down to a simple math problem. The more ground you cover, the more fish you are likely to get your lure in front of.
In addition to being effective, casting plugs is oh, so fun! It’s just like bass fishing…only the fish in this case are much bigger and a lot more shiny!
PLUGS There’s a wide variety of plugs that work well for this method. The right one for you depends on the situation, and you sometimes just have to tinker around until you get the right combo.
Some plugs dive too deep for a given spot while others may not get down far enough. Some have rattles and that can be the ticket in off-color water but you may want a quieter lure in low, clear water.
To get you stared, I’ll give you a look at my arsenal. My all time favorite, go-to lure for this technique is the Yakima Bait Co. MagLip 4.5. This thing has caught me more kings while casting than any other lure. I think it’s ability to dive quickly, combined with its good action is what makes the 4.5 so deadly.
It’s larger brother, the MagLip 5.0, gets bit a lot too. And if i really need to get down, I’ve been known to throw some HawgNose Flatfish from time to time.
I have also fared well with the K15 Kwikfish in shallower spots. Brad’s Magnum Wiggler is another must-have lure that will cover you in a lot of situations.
As far as colors go, I usually don’t get too fancy. Good ol’ chrome/chartreuse bill is my number one king getter. I also like chattreuse/lime and chartreuse/metallic blue patterns.
It doesn’t hurt, however, to have some other plugs on hand too — just in case the fish are playing hard to get on a given day. Metallic pink is another solid choice, as are straight chrome, chrome/fluorescent orange and copper.
Where legal, I always spice my plugs up with some sort of bait wrap on the belly. Sardine or herring fillets work well, but you can also wrap canned oil packed tuna — or even cured roe — onto the lure.
Affix the bait to the plug by wrapping it on tightly with Miracle Thread. If bait’s not available, try smearing the lure with something like Atlas-Mike’s Lunker Lotion in sardine or shrimp flavors or Pro Cure’s bloody tuna
TACKLE When casting for kings, I prefer baitcasting gear, but you can do it with spinning tackle too.
Either way you’ll need a rod that’s somewhere between 7’9″ and 8’6″. The tip needs to be soft so that a fish can slurp down the plug without feeling a lot of resistance but you also need power in the bottom end to turn rampaging fish — or lift them up off the bottom.
A nice smooth reel with a buttery drag is essential too. Spool up with 30- to 50-pound braid and then run a 4- to 10-foot section of clear 25- to 40-pound mono for a leader.
You may also want to look at the hooks on your plugs. Sometimes factory trebles won’t hold up to big bruising, kings, so I normally replace them with 3x strong aftermarket up- grades. For casting, I like to run just one hook on my plug. With two trebles on there, you can get some mid-air tangling on the cast. Each lure has its own balance point, but when possible, I like to run either a single treble or siwash hook off the back of the lure.
Sometimes, to get the lure to run true, you’ll need to add a little weight to the belly hook attachment eye when that hook is removed — something like a couple split rings or a split ring and a barrel swivel. Just something to replace the weight of the hook you took off.
OTHER SPECIES Now, here’s where things get really cool! Kings are just the tip of the iceberg. All salmon species (except sockeye) can be readily caught by casting plugs. And since coho, chums and pinks are often found in slow water, they make perfect targets for this method.
You can occasionally catch some reds too, but I haven’t been able to consistently score with plugs yet.
The key to catching these other species is to scale down your offerings. The plugs listed above will catch fish but you will get a lot more grabs by customizing your lure selection to match your target fish. When chums and silvers are on the menu, the 3.5 MagLip is about as effective as it gets. Brad’s Wigglers are also good and I have caught quite a few fish on K11X Kwikfish too.
Metallic pink, hot orange and chrome/chartreuse are my top three colors for silvers and chums but there are also times when metallic purple also works.
Humpies are pushovers on small pink plugs like Brad’s Wee Wigglers and the 2.5 size MagLip.
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